Living well is the best revenge. Eating delicious and healthy food is part of a good life. Sous Vide cooking allows you to cook almost everything to the exact cooking pointness. Grilled salmon slices are a healthy choice that will not only catch the eye, but also the eye. Cooking vegetables in this way is also delicious. Recently, I started to be interested. My wife used the word \"obsession) Cook in vacuum. Sous Vide is French, meaning in a vacuum. In the simplest form, it seals everything you are cooking in a plastic bag, draws air from the plastic bag, puts the sealed bag in a bucket of water, keeps the target temperature of the food, and keep the Bath for a long time. The food cannot be overcooked because the cooking process will not continue once the internal temperature reaches the target. You can achieve this with a picnic cooler and zipper Lock the freezer bag and thermometer. In order to achieve the same result, the purchase of commercially manufactured equipment will cost you $300 (way up! ). This Instructure records my journey as I build my own device, much less than the model built commercially. How much less, you ask? I don\'t know yet, but I\'ll look into the actual cost and I\'ll update the visible as soon as I can figure it out. There are many good methods for DIY Sous Vide devices, some are simple and some are quite complicated to use PID ( Ratio/integral/derivative)algorithms ( Seeing this is definitely at the end of the simple. I found some voltage swings in the temperature sensor, but I didn\'t notice a significant excessive fluctuation in the water temperature using my method. To solve the voltage swing problem, I used a simple smoothing algorithm to average the previous samples and limit the quantity with the definition of max_samples. Next, I set the default target temperature to a rare value in beef. If no further adjustment is required, it will work without an LCD display, serial input or adjustment button. Otherwise, adjustments can be made via a USB connection to the computer or an up and down adjustment button. The monitoring temperature can be done by a USB connection to the computer or by a 16x2 LCD screen connected to the Arduino. The engineering box I use has two covers, one is plastic and the other is aluminum. This is good because I messed up the first time I tried to use the plastic cover. In my first attempt, I used the blue painter\'s tape and drew various holes where I wanted them. I cut the modular outlet cover to a reasonable size with a band saw. I drill the groove on the back of the modular outlet cover with Forstner drill bit and use Dremel tool to cut the opening of the LCD panel. I don\'t have enough skills with Dremel, the rectangle I cut is very sloppy. The layout is not good either. The rectangle squeezes the wire path of the LCD and the position of the cut The modular outlet cover down has a corner blocking a box cover screw. I discarded the plastic cover and used the CAD program (DoubleCAD) Create a layout to print and paste onto the aluminum cover using spray glue. I used a tool ( Radio Jameco, Newark Shack) Cut the rectangle of the LCD panel and the groove of the modular outlet cover. Next, I drilled 1/4 holes for the LED Holder and other holes to install the up and down instant contact switch I used. Grommet\'s holes are drilled at one end of the box. The hole is centered at the end and offset from the top to allow the entire width of grommet to fit just under the lid. Cuts (approximately) The tangent of the hole is made with a steel saw and a \"U \"- Shape to allow grommet to slide onto the hole. Grommet is cut off for installation around the power cord, in which case the USB cable. The holes for installing the LCD panel must be arranged very carefully. Place some of the painter\'s tape on the back of the cover, where holes are expected, place the LCD panel in the appropriate position, and mark the hole position with long and thin Sharpie marks or thin pencil leads. Remove the LCD panel (of course) And it is done by drilling and drilling in the center. I found it best to use 4- 40 3/4 machine screws with a hex nut between the lid and the LCD panel and a hex nut for fixing the panel. The extra nut acts as a stand-off between the panel and the lid with proper spacing. If you look at the picture, you will find that the breadboard or circuit board is not used. I may reconsider this if I update the design. Also note that I use tags to identify the connection. This allows me to disconnect the Arduino and reconnect it without having to refer to the wiring diagram. I tried a variety of wire gauges looking for flexibility but had enough stiffness as a pin to connect to the Arduino. I tried four conductor phone cables, either the 22nd or the 24, but it was too hard and pulled down from the connector and moved very slightly. My compromise is to use a male/female jumper to connect between a harder wire and an Arduino. [ It may be easier to just use the jumper itself. ] Collect two sets of wires, that is, all connections to 5 v and all connections to the ground, Weld each group together and protect the connection with a heat shrink tube or tape. Alternatively, you can use a small wire nut. Make the wires about 3 inch each, and the circuit is grounded using a color code of red, 5 v, and black. There should be six black and four red. Weld a black line to one of the contacts of each button switch contact. Another contact for each switch will be connected to the pins D4 or D4 of the Arduino. The cathode of the welding state causes the black line. Weld the wire to the anode of the LED. This will connect to the pin D13 of the Arduino. To connect to the LCD drive, I used the parent/parent jumper for the pair connection. Two pairs of very good sockets can slide onto the pins of the drive. Each jumper is connected to the f/f jumper to provide 5 v and ground for the LCD driver. Two male/male jumpers connect the TX and DX data f/f connectors to Arduino pins 0 and a1. [ After the event, I might use another PC power cord connector, as I did in the tail steps of the power switch. ] Two color codes are printed on the PlayStation 11 Jack. Follow the one in black/red/green/yellow. For plugs that will be connected to the temperature sensor, please use the black/red/green/yellow order ( Hooks at the bottom) 3 was found at the end of the power switch. 5mm stereo jack. The three terminals of the Jack are called rings, tips and sleeves. Connect the black wire to the sleeve, connect the yellow wire to the ring, and connect the red wire to the tip. The temperature probe uses the LM35 or LM34 temperature sensor. When the LM35 produces a Celsius reading, the LM34 will produce an Fahrenheit reading. Initially, I had a hard time finding the LM34, and in order to be more adaptable to Fahrenheit, I added an algorithm in the code to convert degrees Celsius to Fahrenheit. I have also added the code so that any sensor can be used for either Fahrenheit or Celsius. The probe will be connected to the project box using a plug from the iOS11. Follow the color order shown when making your own cable connection. If you are using pre- Make your own phone line, make sure the wiring is in the order shown in the picture, from the top, black, red, green and yellow with hooks at the bottom. Note that in commercial cables, the color order at one end is the opposite of the other. In connection with the LM35 or LM34, exposed wires and solder joints should cover the Heat Shrink tube or tape. Using a four conductor phone, weld the Red Line to Vs, weld the black line to GND, and weld the yellow line to Vout. Green wire will not be used, should be cut off. The temperature sensor needs to be waterproof. I\'m using 9/32x0. 014 (7. 14mm x 0. 355mm) I bought the red copper tube at a local hobby/train model store. It is large enough to hold my sensors and pipe insulation. The cut-off will cover the part of the sensor and wire, exceeding the point where the cable cover is stripped off. The next step can be very confusing, so take the necessary precautions to cover any working face you don\'t want to apply with silicon. First, a large amount of silicon is sprayed in air traffic control. Apply the sensor to a layer and discover the wires where the lid starts and just past. Insert the sensor into the tube and twist it in the tube. Withdraw and reapply slightly with silicon. Re-insert and repeat until you are sure that the sensor and the wires that are not covered are fully encapsulated. Set aside to allow. The relay used has connector pins that connect the low-voltage control wires. These can be welded, but the simpler way is to use the connector modified from PC 4 Pins of the AT/ATX/IDE power cord. Modify the power cord by cutting off the large connector. Cut the wire as close as possible to the connector. Use the pointed instrument to remove the black conductor next to the yellow conductor and the red conductor, for example, The Awl on my knife is pressed on the respective fixing clip until the wire is removed. Insert the yellow conductor into the hole next to the red and push it into the hole until the fixing clip clicks. Use the wire on the connector, take 3. 5mm stereo jack, connect the black wire to the sleeve, connect the yellow wire to the ring, and connect the red wire to the tip. The listing is a single-post delivery box for \"New Works. It is much cheaper than the item box and is easier to use as it is made to accept the power outlet. Cut off the installation. Drill holes in the cord grommet and stereo jack. Install the jack with the relevant connector of the relay. Push grommet into the hole and feed the power cord through grommet. The hot surface of the power cord without color will be smooth. The neutral line has ribs. Black will be hot if there is color, White will be neutral. Connect the hotline to the common terminal of the relay. None of the connecting wires (normally open) Relay terminals on the thermal side ( Brass screws) Socket for power outlets. Connect the neutral line to the neutral side of the power socket ( Silver screws). Connect the green line of the power cord to the green screw (ground). Connect the modified connector to the relay so that the red line is connected to the VCC pin. At this time, the tail wiring of the power switch is completed. The assembly system is simple. The order of assembly is not important. Plug the sensor cable into the RJ-11 jack. Plug the stereo cable between the project box and the tail of the power supply. Plug the tail of the power supply into the wall socket. Plug the USB cable from your computer/laptop or USB phone charger. Put enough water into the slow cooker to soak the sealed food. It is helpful to start using hot water. Put in a small aquarium filter pump and plug it in. Plug in the slow cooker and set the power supply to high. Drown your food bag. To reduce the weight of the package, you may need to put a dish on it. The results were outstanding. The steak on display was soaked in the bathroom for an hour and a half. This is longer than a barbecue, but the result is predictable. I would love to say that I will never roast steak again, but I know that I have to compromise if there is a time limit. Well, that\'s it now. Bon appétit! Have fun and share.