custom storage box for new tools

by:Chengbai     2020-02-27
I recently bought myself a new bit/drive. Hooray for me!
Like many of the kits you see around, they don\'t have boxes with hard edges, but rather a \"storage bag\" that is essentially a small and heavy canvas tote bag.
No internal pockets or anything, just a bag with a zipper on the top.
I never thought about using them for storage or shipping.
Maybe they\'re a good lunch bag.
In fact, when my 3 year old goes to the weekend of my grandmother, they are a good size and can be used as an overnight bag.
Anyway, I need a better way to store them, so I build a storage box for each of them.
Although I have built two boxes, I will only show one here.
The second one is only different on the surface.
The tool I used: the oblique saw (
Any small saw)
Other larger bits of Drill3/8 \"bit19/64\" bit (see step 10)
Pocket hole clamp and right angle flap with 1/4 \"straight hole and edge guide drill stopper and hammer material s1/2\" plywood (base of box)1/4\" plywood (lid of box)1x4 lumber (sides of box)
3/8 \"dowel1 1/4\" pocket hole screw x121 \"pocket hole screw x4Wood glue window frame lock (
Actually only need half)
Spray your tool on 1/2 plywood and any other accessories you want.
As you can see, I chose to have the battery in its own position instead of storing it on the tool.
Make sure that the edges of the 1x4 walls remain 3/4 \".
Use your 3/8 bit, keep it as vertically as possible and stick to the side of the tool.
Mark a few points with a drill bit at each edge of the tool.
Tapping the back of the drill with a hammer will help.
Set the drill stop from about 1/4 \"at the end of the drill.
People will use masking tape if you don\'t have a drill station.
Otherwise, just eyes-
The most important thing is not to drill all the way.
Keep the drill bit as vertical as possible.
Any swing will cause the hook to not cooperate closely. (
In fact, it\'s not that bad if you keep going)
Cut your pins into pins.
When nailing holes in you in the previous step, they should not be higher than 1/2 \"below the top of 1x4 \".
Otherwise they will block the way to the lid.
I cut the pegs by hand with a saw, so the ends are uneven.
I cleaned it up with a Sander.
Push them into the hole and test the suitability of the tool.
It should be personal.
When dry loading my tools, I decided to have too much wiggle space, so I moved the two hooks on the battery closer and added another one to the bottom of the handle.
You can use the existing holes as a guide.
Then re-insert your hook and dry again.
Repeat until you are happy.
If the fit is tight, you can wrap the hook up with tape instead of repackagingdrill the hole.
You can see the close cooperation of the battery between the photos.
Apply a little yellow wood glue at the end of the nail, and then push them into the hole with a twist.
After a few minutes, wipe the squeeze out. Let it cure.
Test your health again.
At this point, you need to flush the pin with the base, but now it will be much easier to do so than after you open the wall.
With your tools, bring your tools
Stand up through wood and.
Make sure the wood is at least 1/2 \"higher than the top of the nail \".
I was able to use 1x4 s.
If you are building a box for a Sander, a reciprocating saw or something bigger, you may need 1x6 or even 1x8.
Set the edge guide on the router so you can cut a 1/4 \"about 1/4\" channel from one edge.
Ideally, you will have a single piece of 1x4 that you can do the job.
I used some different scraps and it\'s okay.
Cut your side into the size of your box.
I put the pocket hole at the end of the short side.
Then I added a set of pocket holes to the bottom of the long edge (
Side without router slot). (
Remember that the screws should be directed towards the \"meat\" of the board \".
Therefore, the pocket screw hole will eventually appear outside the box.
You can fill them with pins or plugs, or keep them as they are, it\'s a functional item and the holes don\'t hurt anything)
On one of the short edges, you should cut the routered groove, and the top of this sample rises to the bottom of the slot.
When the 4 walls are screwed together, the most important thing is to keep the slots in the corner in a row.
Attached note: If you plan to use pocket holes in many projects, it is worth it to have at least one pocket hole fixture.
The Kreg Automaxx auto-conditioning system seems to be much more complex than advertised.
I find myself needing to adjust it between most clamping.
But it is still very useful.
Attach the wall of the box to the base.
Screw them into the base using pocket holes.
The screw length recommendation for Kreg is based on the assumption that you screw the wood to other wood of the same thickness.
Need some guess if your wood does not match.
I will add 3/4 \"wood to 1/2\" in this case \".
What I do is set the fixture to 3/4 \", drill holes on thicker wood and then use 1\" screw instead of 1 1/4 \".
Good results.
As long as your wood is flat and straight, everything should meet very closely.
I aligned the box with my 1/4 plywood and got it off and got the size of the lid.
You can measure the inside dimensions of the box and then add 1/2 \"to your width, 1\" to the length \".
Whatever you get them, cut your 1/4 \"into these sizes.
1/4 \"plywood can also be cut with tool knives and straight edges.
Usually it is enough to pass through a dozen times with a sharp blade.
That\'s what I did.
If you are going to use a saw, to know that the saw will crack and tear, use the painter tape to minimize this.
You should have this cover slip in place by cutting off one side of the slot.
Stick a piece of scrap to it so you have something to turn it on/off.
Connect the window fan lock so that the curved lock part sticks up the edge when locking the position, but does not stick up when \"on.
That\'s why I said you only need half a window frame lock.
I found half of the window frame locks in my local human restoration habitat. (
If you have not recovered by your side, then I am sorry for you.
I extend my condolences to you. )
Since this is an impact driver, I might assume 90 + % in the time I will have a Phillips, flat or magnetic bit holder.
So it makes sense to put them in the box.
Cut off two pieces of scrap and put it in the corner.
On the larger one, I drilled two holes, 19/64.
The other one is bigger.
It\'s bigger than 3/8, but smaller than 1/2. (
The production process is worn out and I don\'t want to take my calipers)
The blocks are just stuck in the corner.
There may have been some clips, but that\'s what I did.
I painted it green.
Asking someone to go and get a green box is much easier than trying to explain which black box you are referring.
I\'m a little worried about bringing paint into the slot of the cover or accessory holder.
This is not a problem.
The light color also makes the black marker pen show better.
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